holley sniper efi iac problems

is the fuel pressure. To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. When the secondary throttle blades are centered in their bores and pivot freely, an additional return spring is not necessary. So the issue Im having is low idle. SNIPER EFI TO HOLLEY DUAL SYNC HARNESS Part# 558-493 $34.44 Qty: Add To Cart Idle Air Control Motor Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems Part# 543-105 $71.72 Qty: Add To Cart Tuning Your Sniper EFI System for Progressive Secondary Link Use 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get Holley Sniper How To Set The IAC (Idle Air Control) in 5 - YouTube Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. I have driven a stand-alone transmission controller for the 4L60E in my (then) Sniper-equipped '95 GMC pickup using the Sniper TPS with complete success. The window you saw in the image above pops up. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. This item: Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black $71.72 Holley Sniper EFI 870001 Throttle Position Sensor $34.60 Holley 860004-1 92MM Sniper Throttle BDY $223.93 Customers who viewed this item also viewed Page 1 of 1 Start over Holley EFI Idle Air Control (Iac) Valve Motor 30 13 offers from $79.56 The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. I would disregard any correlation between idle control between the Stock and Street/Strip setups. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. I have an adapter on the manifold for squarebore to spreadbore and then a phenolic spacer. Rpm with 4-8 iac but it still shows red and shuts off randomly at idle and it won't even drive 2 miles without shutting off. Follow this link to download it for free if you have not already done so. % = 49 This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. Without it you are working in the dark. around 45 mph it bogs down, catches itself, bogs, catches, bogs and catches. As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure GaugeI think its a little ridiculous that I cant see fuel pressure on the display even though its measuring it but whatever. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. The fact that it ran so (at times) with 90+ PSI fuel pressure is a testimony to the Holley's closed-loop technology. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I have the system learn the higher speeds? It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. I'd say make sure you buy from someone who can give you good after-purchase help (hint!) If When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. Am I missing something. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. Holley have given a new unit. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. I will turn it up some. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. We offer some tips to help with that. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. Anyway I have a 327 sbc in a 1987 Monte SS with a T5 5 speed and 3:73 posi rear. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. As you have noted, each time the idle goes up. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. Engine warms up to 195 degrees and stays. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. I.e. Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. Thank you for any advice. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. I think that this time around you will find that it starts and idles really well and only gets better from there. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. Let Or, at least, it should. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. So glad this was helpful. Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19210007.html, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.3128#post83128, If this is your first visit, be sure to Please check your process again and see if you can see very specifically what is not working correctly. The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. The IAC going to 30 is normal. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) Based on your situation above as well as some of other experiences, I recognized that I needed to improve my tuning procedures above to better explain what steps to take if that 10-step process doesn't completely solve the problem. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? However, I always preach to never touch any of the controls on the handheld until you have a couple hundred miles on the engine in a range of driving situations. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? That will at least tell you something. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. I don't want to go on too long here but once you know if you're trying to add or remove fuel, there are a couple of ways to go. This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? So, if pressing the throttle is making it start, it's because you're flooded.Which is consistent with your rich idle condition comment, right? What you are experiencing is rather common. You advise would be greatly appreciated. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! The throttle position should be zero. Also its extremely rich at idle. Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem. I very pleased with the performance, it is a huge improvement from the 800CFM carb I had on this motor. The Sniper will be controlling the timing so it will be based on a multitude of factors. And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). This may sound crazy but I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you don't have an idle issue--you have a timing issue. If you use your handheld to go here: If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? I straightened that out, got it running and that's where it goes downhill. mail today. :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. Turned it off and on again. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. Short drives is fine then it'll I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. Thanks in advance for any advice. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. I had a customer recently with a high idle problem that he eventually traced to pad plug on one of the vacuum ports. Car has run perfect every time and has never hesitated or stalled since. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. On startup- cold or hot, I get a 2 second high idle of about 1500 RPM before normal set idle of 750 RPM happens. You might have a bad IAC, but you can also have a bad vacuum pod on the transmission. Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black - amazon.com I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. Hi. The Super Sniper will allow you to monifor fuel pressure if you add an electronic sender but this is not an option with the standard Sniper. Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. Thanks, That is an strange situation. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. I installed Holley Sniper on three other Mavericks here in Brazil and the problem also exists.I did not make any changes to the parameters, only on Target AFR and the correction on the Idle Speed Curve chart. After doing TPS reset it starts fine but when you give it some gas it hangs at 1500 and will not return to idle. Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. Don't try to correct for the fuel. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. When I shut it off then start it I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. If idle drops below 800 it wont come back itll chug around 300 rpm for a few seconds then die. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. First thing I would check holley efi. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. When the lambda is 1.0, the displayed AFR is 14.7;1 REGARDLESS OF THE FUEL. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. Holley Motor Life You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. I had HIGH Idle issue and fixing this curve FIXED the ISSUE --- THANK YOUCan you explain what "Current Learn % means, after finally fixing the idle problem this % jump from -1 to -30% in about 5 minutes at idle with CTS @ about 170.Also when starting the car at hot the engine goes to about 2300+ RPM for a few seconds then crashes down to my Hot idle speed of 950 -- bounces a little and then smooths out. And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. I pulled over and turned the car off and then back on. Give them a call and if they are unable to provide customer support the contact the Holley tech support line at 1-866-464-6553. I am right back to where I started. RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. You want to ensure that nothing is hung up in there.The only thing that I can think of that would cause the fuel pressure to spike when the motor starts is the increased fuel flow at the higher alternator voltage (jumping from 12.0 to 13.5 volts or so.) Hello Is this an issue to worry about? We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. Thank you. datsun sniper efi Holley RetroBright This 1974 Datsun 620 Bulletside Cruises With The Help Of Sniper EFI Bradley Iger 01/13/2023 features Latest News sweepstakes 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes Gen III Hemi Enter To Win Holley's 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes For Your Chance To Win A 600+ Horsepower 392 Stroker! That, on top of your air leak, is allowing the engine to idle at 2400 RPM. Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. I think that the more important point is that Holley kept sending him units until everything was working. Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." TPS% = 1 :-). The idle is 1350-1400 with the idle screw at initial contact. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. That is not a huge problem but it just means the IAC has no ability to lower the idle beyond what it is running at that point. Interesting question. I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. These problems will go away when you do that. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. I guess we can't have everything. These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. No, the idle speed curve setting isn't something that you normally worry about--and especially not down at minus 40 degrees farenheit. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. And, hopefully, within those degrees you will find a place where you don't get the whistle. From herethe cycle continues and I am It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. However, I have never found that to be the case. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. I have driven car about 200 miles. What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? A problem since day 1 - YouTube Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. No problems with either cold or hot starts. With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. back to trying to zero down an idle. It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. Part# 538-13. you have it set. The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. One of the signs of a vehicle with a rough idle is a faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor. How To Adjust Iac On Holley Sniper Definitely not 90. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. The idle will not return to the set value.The second issue is the same as the first but the motor will stall out. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. That is what I really respect about Holley. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). Often, folks will say, "I did everything you said. I'm wonder if the iac can cause this. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. ChrisI finally got everything resolved. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. I'd suggest that you assume everything the previous owner did was wrong until you can prove that it was done correctly. The IAC should display a 2-8% to bring the idle up to the actual target. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. Sorry for all the questions, new to the efi world. I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? It then idles up from 750 to 1100. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? Holley Sniper Iac Delete One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. Check fuel pressure too (. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). An under-sized filter will allow part- throttle operation but fuel pressure will drop at WOT and run very lean - perhaps surge under power. One of the best Ive seen so far. Of the two options, I generally recommend the self-learn. check out the. All times are GMT-6. I have a set of 8.8 Accel Rfi suppression wires on it. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. This curve runs fom -40 degrees to 260 degrees, and gradually reduces the RPM along that range. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . Thanks for all your help Chris! Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" It felt like it was flooding out at low speed, low. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original It is simply for the benefit of the user. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. If you are idling at 2100 RPM (based on a default IAC Hold position of 30%) and your target idle speed is 900, then the ECU is not going to try to idle down. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. My Sniper is 99% great! Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light?

Elizabeth Olsen And Sebastian Stan Fanfiction, Cicero De Republica Translation, Unfi Warehouse Locations, Articles H